The waves were once again beautiful for the Nelscott Reef Big Wave Event held in Lincoln City, Oregon February 2, 2013. It was the 3rd stop on this year’s Big Wave World Tour and the event shined with perfect 20 foot waves. I rode my 10 foot board that I built to paddle in to larger open ocean big waves and it worked well especially the extra paddling capacity it carried with the full rails, enabling me to move around with the heavy currents and large lineup. The board was hemp and 6 oz glass with handmade redwood fins 2+1 setup and a redwood tail-block. The board broke on my last wave of the swell right before the final getting detonated on the inside section in the late afternoon side shore conditions. I ended up swimming around looking for the top 2/3 of my board as I was left with the tail and wasn’t about to ditch it. I found it after 15 minutes floating in seafoam between the outer reef and the beach break half a mile offshore. I then spent another 20 minutes getting sucked back into the impact zone with no one to come grab me until finally someone radioed from shore who saw me drifting. Thanks to that board as it got myself and a few friends some memorable rides through several years and many big wave sessions. The board finally broke but not from a bad grass job! The latest model is on the shaping rack as we speak and the big wave board fire is lit under my planer…for many shapers the most pride in their work lies in the big wave gun…it means so much more that simply catching and riding waves…it is beauty in feeling comforted by your board as you lie on it amongst giant waves scared shitless knowing the two of you are in it together…
Photos courtesy of Gwynne Jackson (a nice lady who was watching the event…no relation!)
The proposed seismic testing off the Central California coast off of Morro Bay, CA has been stopped by surfers, activists and the Coastal Commission. It was a huge success story prooving WE CAN protect our coast from mega corporations. Big shout outs to all those involved to create a precedent to ban seismic testing in marine rich environments and pristine coastlines. Mahalo!
Kaimanu was featured in the August issue of High Times magazine in the Buzz section. They interviewed me about hemp surfboards and we talked about hemp and what it means for a sustainable society. Of course High Times is primarily a magazine about medical marijuana they also advocate hemp and its many uses. Check it.
We’ve all been anticipating the year 2012 and it is finally upon us. Transformations are in place and it feels different already this new age we beckon. As for the surf… it has been pumping!!
I have been riding my 5’6″ agave roundtail twinni and I love it. Shot some photos with Chris Burkhard the other day and finally got the board in an editorial on surfermag.com. These boards are all eco: agave, bio epoxy, redwood fins and hemp.
Ancient Corn Cob just lying in a cave next to Anasazi ruins. Jena and I hiked this Canyon in Utah and saw dozens of ruins built into the rock shelters some of them 1000 feet up a vertical wall. The Four Corners area is Magical to say the least. If I didn’t surf I would probably live there. Plus epic snowboarding.
We made mission down to Nicaragua this past March for a quick trip and to look into the Nicaraguan organic clothing industry as well. Hank, Troll, CJ Drummy, and myself with our filmer and photographer had a good time and enjoyed the local culture.
Riding my 5’6″ Grouch, same board as I’m holding above. Good shortboards and fish shapes are key for Nicaragua with a lot of good but not big waves.
Mingling with the bustle of everyday life in the towns of places like this open your mind. I really enjoy being obscure and anonymous in other countries, its such a diverse world out there its great breathe foreign air and just cruise.
When the coast gets fogged in its always nice to camp out above the fog layer next to the redwood forests. Wake up and make breakfast, do some yoga, and it starts warming up real quick…the mosquitos and biting flies come out and its time to descend back to the beach and cool off ready to get in the water.
The Redwood forest of Central and Northern California is majestic and contains the tallest trees in the world, so much oxygen for the planet is produced here and the living energy of these creatures is part of what makes California the amazing place that it is. The first stand of redwoods is 20 minutes north of our home of Cayucos and we are connected to these trees in more ways than we imagine. The Kaimanu Fin is made from recycled redwood so you can harness the power of the trees in every turn